It's not often that PFI defers to other sources, but this is a special case. The March 27, 1989 issue of The New Yorker
ran "A Reporter at Large" article on the best pies in America by Sue
Hubbell. This recipe comes from that article, and having made it
many times since we think it's worth reproducing here. This is as
it appears in her collected volume, Far-Flung Hubbell, 1995.
So, Charlie, here's what you'll need.
The flour and salt go into the bowl.
Add the sugar.
We have tried this with butter
instead of shortening, but it is trickier to handle and the difference
in taste is not worth the bother. Even this will be the best piecrust
you've ever tasted.
Cut in the shortening with the paddle mixer attachment on your MixMaster.
Mix up the egg, vinegar, and water.
Pour into the bowl containing the mixed shortening and dry ingredients.
It will quickly mix up into a
slightly greasy glob. If you use butter in place of shortening,
make sure that it's not overmixed...creating sufficient heat to liquify
the butter and cause it to come out of solution and make a big
mess. This is also why you need to refrigerate it: so the effect
of the heat generated by mixing is minimized by cooling. Rolling
out the dough will also heat it, and beyond a certain temperature the
dough becomes sticky and unmangeable.
While the dough is cooling, peel the
apples. Continuous paring (with a little practice) beats trying
to peel the apples with a regular peeler. Extra points are earned
if you can peel the apple in one continuous and unbroken spiral.
Use an apple corer to section the fruit and separate the core.
If the apple is large, the sections may need to be sliced in half.
For many decorative oven pie or tart dishes the 4 cups called for in the recipe are way too little...double it!
If you're not ready to use the apples immediately, squeeze on a little
lime or lemon juice and put them into the fridge so they won't turn
brown.
Mix up the pie spices.
After it's been sufficiently cooled, roll out the dough between layers of waxed paper or it may stick to the rolling pin.
Peel off one layer of waxed paper,
turn over, place in the baking dish, then remove the other layer of
waxed paper. Mix the spice mixture into the apples, trying to
coat them evenly and avoid clumping. Pour into the baking dish
mounding them up in the middle.
"Dot" with butter...we believe in large dots!
Repeat the process of placing and de-wax-papering with the top crust.
Use a fork or knife to poke
ventilation holes in the crust. Here's another opportunity to
earn points through creative, illustrative poking. If you have
extra crust left over after trimming the top crust, roll out "snakes"
of dough and make designs, runic symbols, or what-have-you. Brush
on the egg and milk mixture to produce a golden-brown sheen on your
finished pie.
Don't overbake or the apples will turn into apple sauce.
Break out the ice cream before you exclaim, "Charlie, there's your pie."
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